Safety In Cambodia

Since moving to Cambodia almost two years ago, I’ve never felt threatened, unsafe, or endangered in any way. I walk everywhere, explore neighbourhoods, and travel around the country on buses and motorbikes. Having said that, however, it’s a place where you do need to exercise caution as the cities (Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, in particular) possess an edginess that can turn unpleasant if you don’t handle yourself correctly.

   
   These are some of the things I’d suggest not doing: drinking a dozen beers and trying to find your way home at 3am; walking alone as a woman late at night; expressing anger or showing aggression to a Cambodian native (everything, even confrontations, are handled with smiles); getting into a traffic accident or physical incident and sticking around (we’ve heard of foreigners who are blamed, no matter what, when in confrontation with a local); using an ATM at night; carrying a bag over your shoulder; carrying anything valuable; riding on the back of a motodop (motorcycle taxi).
  A few months after moving here, I had my bag snatched from my shoulder by a moto driver on the street where I live one night while walking home from dinner with my husband. It wasn’t late and I wasn’t alone or walking in an unknown area – but I subsequently discovered this was part of Phnom Penh living, and that I had now been unofficially initiated into Cambodian life.
I then heard about moto drivers who work in pairs, where the driver of the first bike snatches a bag from a pedestrian and the second one watches out to make sure they get away safely and tackles anyone who puts up resistance. Almost everyone I know here has experienced petty theft in some way (mostly bag snatching or bicycle theft), and we’ve been told to leave nothing of value near a window as there are thieves who grab things through windows (even when there are bars on them or if you live on the third floor).

     
   As with any country where poverty is rife, there’s quite a bit of petty theft. After my bag was stolen, I started wearing a bum bag containing only the essentials for my evenings out and if I have to carry larger sums of money, I now tuck it into a pocket instead of carrying it in a purse. I’d also caution expats about riding on the back of a motorbike with a motodop. Not only are they not safe (there’s a very high accident rate), but they also provide targets for thieves who might grab your bag from around your shoulder.
   
   If you do fall victim to bag snatching, don’t hold on. The contents of any bag can be replaced. Your body and your health can’t.
   
   If you experience a crime, you’ll have to contact the Tourist Police (097 778 0002) in order to obtain a police report if you want to claim it on your insurance. You’ll probably be asked to pay a bribe to the police officer in order to get the report (somewhere in the region of $5 - $10).
   
   I have a friend who caught the woman who snatched her bag and ended up spending hours in the police station, followed by a trip to the jail, followed by a trip to the court. She ended up getting her bag back with most of the contents but had to pay a “fee” to the police as well as spend a lot of her time dealing with it.
   
   Here’s a list of emergency numbers that may be useful.
   Police: 117 (from landlines), T: (023) 366 841; (023) 720 235 (from mobiles)
   Fire: 118 (from landlines), T: (023) 723 555 (from mobiles)
   Ambulance: 119 (from landlines) T: (023) 724 891 (from mobiles)
   Tourist police:  (012) 942 484 or (097) 778 0002
   Full list: http://www.phnompenh.gov.kh/phnom-penh-city-emergency-useful-numbers-24-hrs-169.html
   
   (NOTE:  The international telephone dialing code for Cambodia is 855. When calling from overseas, drop the zero before the phone number. When dialing within the country, dial zero and the eight digits which follow).
   
   Other than petty theft, there’s another hazard to being a pedestrian in Cambodia – traffic. It’s mostly a source of amusement, as I’ve never seen anything quite like it – tuktuks drive the wrong way on one-way roads, motos carry everything from pigs to six-foot plates of glass to their entire families (the most I’ve seen is six), and luxury SUVs believe they own the road. While traffic moves at a slow and meandering pace, it’s a little overwhelming when you want to cross the road.
   
   Rule of thumb is that motorbikes and tuktuks will generally go around you, but cars will not. Lexus SUVs, emblazoned with an eight-inch “LEXUS” on the door, seem intent on running down anything in their way – and generally smile as they do so – so it’s wise to give them a wide berth. Vehicles will often not stop at stop signs or red lights. Traffic cops with whistles ineffectually try to direct cars and motorbikes, and everyone drives on the wrong side of the street if their destination is in sight.
   
   There are also a number of SUVs and luxury cars with a “VIP” sticker displayed on the front dashboard. That could mean they are Cambodian bigwigs and you don’t want to tangle with, get into an accident with, or have an argument with them. Their importance in Cambodian society will overshadow any sense of right or wrong, so keep your peace with them.